Pukemokimoki: The Sacred Island of Sweet Scented Ferns - A Story of Unity and Cultural Significance

In the heart of Napier’s Inner Harbour, where Carlyle and Thackeray Streets now stand, once rose a prominent hill known as Pukemokimoki – “the hill of the mokimoki fern.” This sacred island, washed on three sides by harbour waters, holds profound significance for Ngāti Pārau and the wider Ahuriri hapū, representing not just a strategic stronghold, but a place where culture, nature, and whakapapa intertwined in the most beautiful way. 

Pukemokimoki was positioned off the western corner of Mataruahou (once known as Scinde Island, Bluff Hill and Hospital Hill), making it an ideal fortified pā site. Its strategic location provided natural defenses, with water serving as protection on three sides. Under the leadership of rangatira Te Ua Te Awha and his son Hauwaho, Ngāti Pārau established a stronghold that would become legendary for both its defensive capabilities and its unique natural treasures. 

Many hapū and iwi are named after tīpuna — such as Ngāti Kahungunu (descendants of Kahungunu) or Ngāti Hinepare (descendants of Hinepare). However, some hapū — including Ngāti Matepū and Ngāti Pārau — take their names from pivotal events that shaped their identity. 

The name Ngāti Pārau arose from the aftermath of significant events in the early 1800s. The name combines ‘Pā’ (a traditional Māori village) and rau (meaning “hundred” or “many”), signifying the coming together of multiple villages — notably the descendants of Ngāti Rangikāmangugu and Ngāi Tahu Ahi. Ngāti Pārau was formed through unity and kotahitanga following the upheaval of this period. 

The key event that led to this unification was the Battle of Taitimuroa, which took place at Pukemokimoki Pā between 1810 and 1820. This battle was a planned retaliation by Ngāti Hinepare and Ngāi Te Upokoiri for the death of one of their tīpuna — a rangatira named Te Kīpatu. The event was later recounted in detail during the Omahu case by Paora Kaiwhata, son of Tareahi of Ngāti Hinepare, who was directly involved. 

At the time, tīpuna of Ngāti Rangikāmangugu and Ngāi Tahu Ahi — now known as Ngāti Pārau — were residing at Pukemokimoki Pā. In a surprise night-time attack, the combined forces of Hinepare and Upokoiri set fire to the Pārau fleet of waka. As flames engulfed the landing, residents rushed from the pā in confusion. When a small group of the attackers was spotted, a pursuit followed — leading straight into a carefully laid ambush. 

Historical accounts from Native Land Court investigations tell of the warriors Hauwaho, Oneone, Tete, and Paho defending their pā during this and other conflicts. During one such engagement, the warriors Tete and Paho killed an invader named Pakapaka within the pā itself. 

Despite the losses suffered during the Battle of Taitimuroa, and despite the fact that the attack was in direct retaliation for an earlier event that, under tikanga, warranted utu, our tīpuna chose not to retaliate. Instead, recognising a greater threat on the horizon — which would later lead to the battles of Te Roto-a-Tara and Te Pakake — they turned toward unity and kotahitanga. 

This pivotal decision represents the essence of what Ngāti Pārau stands for — not conflict, but connection. It was through this coming together, this choice of whanaungatanga over warfare, that Ngāti Pārau was truly formed. 

As the whakataukī reminds us:

Ehara taku toa i te toa takitahi, engari he toa takitini. “My strength is not that of one, but of many. 

Following the Battle of Taitimuroa and the events within the pā boundaries, Pukemokimoki became tapu – sacred and forbidden. This spiritual designation meant that while Ngāti Pārau ceased to occupy the island as a living site, they remained deeply committed to its protection. The tapu status explains why the hapū were so determined to retain Pukemokimoki as a reserve, understanding that its mana required ongoing guardianship and respect — not as a place defined by conflict, but as a sacred site that represents the profound choice our tīpuna made to build strength through unity. 

What made Pukemokimoki truly unique in all of Hawke’s Bay was that it was the only place where the sweet-scented mokimoki fern (Dendroconche scandens) grew naturally. This remarkable plant was so highly prized that tribes from across the region would come seeking it, recognizing its exceptional qualities and cultural significance. 

The mokimoki fern was far more than just a beautiful plant. For the women of Ngāti Pārau and the wider Ahuriri hapū, it was an essential part of daily life and cultural practice. They would wear the fragrant fronds around their necks as natural perfume, creating a distinctive and elegant adornment that connected them directly to their ancestral lands. 

The fern’s uses extended into the realm of maternal care and rongoā (traditional medicine). Combined with scented piripiri moss and tawhiri gum, mokimoki was used to create special aromatic sachets given to pregnant women and new mothers throughout the hapū. These sachets served both practical and spiritual purposes, providing comfort and protection during the most sacred time of bringing new life into the world. 

Traditional knowledge holders also recognised the mokimoki’s powerful healing properties. Root decoctions were prepared for internal cleansing, anti-parasitic treatments, and wound healing. The aromatic qualities that made it so valued for perfume also made it essential for scenting living spaces, perfuming hair, and maintaining the pleasant, healthy environments that supported whānau wellbeing. 

Perhaps the most beautiful testament to the cultural significance of Pukemokimoki comes through an oriori – a traditional lullaby chant that has been passed down through generations: 

“Taku hei piripiri, Taku hei mokimoki, Taku hei tawhiri, Taku kati ‒ taramea” 

“My pendant of sweet scented moss, My pendant of sweet scented fern, My pendant sweet smelling tawhiri gum, My sachet of aromatic smells” 

This beautiful chant captures the intimate relationship between the people and their natural environment, speaking to the sensory richness of life on and around Pukemokimoki. The oriori reflects how these natural treasures were not merely resources to be used, but precious taonga that adorned the body and enriched daily life, creating connections between the physical and spiritual worlds — much like the connections our tīpuna chose to nurture between different groups through unity rather than division. 

As we move forward with contemporary developments in the area where Pukemokimoki once stood, Mana Ahuriri Trust continues to ensure that the mana and significance of this sacred site are properly acknowledged and honoured. The Owen Street development represents an opportunity to weave the stories, symbols, and spiritual significance of Pukemokimoki into modern spaces, creating environments that celebrate our cultural heritage while serving contemporary needs. 

The mokimoki fern, with its unique connection to this place and its multifaceted role in the lives of our tīpuna, serves as a powerful symbol for how we can maintain authentic connections to our ancestral lands. Its story reminds us that the relationship between tangata and whenua is not just about occupation or use, but about understanding, respect, and the nurturing of relationships that span generations. 

The story of Pukemokimoki challenges us to think deeply about how we honour the places that have shaped us. It reminds us that every hill, every plant, every stone carries whakapapa and deserves our respect. As we continue to develop and grow as communities, the example of Pukemokimoki shows us how to maintain authentic connections to our cultural heritage while creating spaces that serve the needs of future generations. 

The choice our tīpuna made at Pukemokimoki — to turn toward kotahitanga rather than continued conflict — provides a powerful model for how we can approach challenges today. Their wisdom in recognizing that greater strength comes from unity continues to guide us in creating developments and making decisions that honour both our past and our future. 

Through the sweet scent of the mokimoki fern and the gentle words of ancient oriori, the spirit of Pukemokimoki continues to enrich our understanding of what it means to be kaitiaki of these precious lands. The island may no longer rise from the harbour waters, but its mana remains strong, embodying the enduring power of choosing connection over conflict, and unity over division. 

Ngā mihi to all who continue to carry forward the kōrero of Pukemokimoki, ensuring that its significance — as a place of natural beauty, cultural richness, and transformative unity — remains alive for generations to come.

Tohu

Our Tohu captures the essence of Pukemokimoki’s story through three interconnected symbolic elements that honour both the natural and cultural significance of this sacred site. 

The mokimoki fern serves as the central element, representing the healing, beauty, and cultural connection that drew people from across the region to this sacred place. The fern’s organic form speaks to the rongoā properties our tīpuna valued, while honouring the women who wore these precious fronds as natural adornment, creating that intimate connection between people and place that the oriori celebrates: “Taku hei mokimoki” – “My pendant of sweet, scented fern.” 

The wave form created by the fern’s furling motion connects Pukemokimoki to Te Whanga-nui-a-Orotu (Napier’s Inner Harbour) – the waters that surrounded and protected the island on three sides. This flowing element represents both the physical protection the harbour provided to the pā site and the spiritual connection to the wider Ahuriri rohe.  

The circular form incorporated into the text captures the core principle of kotahitanga that defines Ngāti Pārau – the coming together of many villages into one strong community. This circular form represents the transformative choice our tīpuna made after the Battle of Taitimuroa, choosing connection over conflict, unity over division, embodying the whakataukī that guides us:

Ehara taku toa i te toa takitahi, engari he toa takitini “My strength is not that of one, but of many.”  

More about this development to come.